FAQs

A typical room takes one to two days, including finishing. Larger areas, repairs or extra coats add time, and we confirm the timeline with your fixed quote.

Very little. Our dust-free sanding systems capture around 99% of dust at source, so your home stays clean while we work. We also protect doorways and skirting before we start.

Yes — every job starts with a free survey and a fixed written quote. There are no surprises on the day, unless you ask us to add extra work. You can request a quote online in a couple of minutes.

We are fully insured with £5m public liability cover. Certificates are available on request, which schools, churches and landlords often need before work starts.

Every floor restoration is covered by our 3-month service guarantee. If something is not right with our workmanship during those three months, we come back and put it right. Gap filling is excluded, because wooden floors move with the seasons — see our service guarantee for the details.

No. We work room by room, and nearly all our clients stay at home throughout. Our water-based lacquers and low-VOC oils have very little odour, so day-to-day life carries on.

You can usually walk on the floor in socks after a few hours. Furniture can go back after 24–48 hours, and rugs are best left off for around a week while the finish fully cures.

Our team works across Surrey and the neighbouring towns and villages. Not sure if you are covered?, get in touch — we are often happy to travel for larger jobs.

Parquet runs in several directions, so we sand it in stages at different angles. A final pass with a fine-grit buffer removes swirl marks and leaves an even surface ready for oil or lacquer.

Many older parquet floors were laid on bitumen adhesive. It does not stop us restoring the floor, but loose blocks need cleaning back and re-fixing with a compatible adhesive. We check this during the survey and include it in the quote.

Smaller gaps are filled with resin mixed with fine sanding dust, so the colour matches. Wider gaps get thin pine slivers glued in and sanded flush. Our gap filling guide compares the two.

Gap filling is excluded from our service guarantee. Wooden floors expand and shrink with the seasons and with movement in the building, which can open small cracks in the filler. We choose the method that suits your floor best to keep this to a minimum.

It usually makes a real difference. Open gaps between boards let cold air up from the void below. Filling them makes rooms cosier and stops dirt collecting between boards.

Yes. After sanding we lay out colour samples on your own floor so you can see how each shade looks in the room before we commit. Find out more about our staining service.

Oak, pine and other woods all react to stain in their own way. Sample cards are only a rough guide, so testing on your own boards is the only reliable way to choose.

We strip and restore staircases, including treads, risers and handrails. Sanding stairs is detailed hand work, and we finish them with a durable finish that copes with daily use. See stairs stripping and restoration.

Usually, yes. We work on every other step so you can still get up and down, then complete the rest once the first coats are dry. We agree the plan with you before we start.

Most staircases take two to three days from stripping to final coat. Lots of paint layers or turned balusters can add a day, which we include in your quote.

Yes — we plan school and public projects around term dates, events and opening hours. Large halls are often completed within a week, so disruption is kept to a minimum.

Yes. After sanding we apply sports-grade lacquer and can repaint court markings to your layout between coats so they are sealed in. Read more about our school floor restoration.

Yes — we supply RAMS and insurance certificates for every commercial or public project. Our team is used to working on occupied sites with strict safety rules.

Office floors can be done out of hours or in phases. Dust-free sanding and low-odour finishes mean staff can be back at their desks quickly.

We have restored many church and community hall floors. We take care with historic timber and choose finishes suited to heavy public use. See churches and community halls.

Prices depend on the floor area, condition, repairs needed and the finish you choose. Our price list shows typical starting prices, and the free survey gives you a fixed written quote.

Often, yes. A few clear photos and the room sizes let us give a guide price quickly. We confirm it with a short visit before work starts, so the final quote is fixed.

Hardwax oil gives a natural, matt look and can be refreshed in patches. Water-based lacquer sits on top as a hard-wearing film that copes well with spills and busy households. We recommend the right one at the survey — or read our guide to oil and lacquer.

Yes. We use low-VOC oils and water-based lacquers that are safe for families and pets once cured. Keep pets off the floor for the first 24 hours, and trim claws to help the finish last.

We usually apply two coats of hardwax oil or three coats of lacquer. High-traffic areas can have an extra coat for added protection.

In most cases, yes — as long as the top wear layer is 3 mm or more. We check the thickness during the free survey, often by lifting a threshold strip or a floor vent. Our engineered floor guide explains more.

Solid timber floors can be sanded again and again. Each sand removes only a very thin layer when done properly, which is why period floors are still going strong after a century.

In nearly every case, yes. We re-glue loose blocks, replace missing ones with matched or reclaimed timber, then sand and finish the whole floor so the repairs disappear. Find out more about parquet floor repairs.

Yes — original boards often hide beautiful timber under old paint and varnish. We punch down nails, replace split boards and sand back to fresh timber. Read our guide to Victorian floorboards for what to expect.

Please clear the room of furniture, rugs and small items before we arrive. We can help move heavy furniture if we know in advance. Our preparation checklist has more tips.

We need access to a standard power socket and, ideally, parking near the property. Our machines run on domestic power, and we bring everything else with us.

In most cases, yes. We deep clean, sand and treat the boards with a UV-resistant decking oil that restores the warm timber tone and reduces slipperiness. See our decking restoration service.

Late spring to early autumn is ideal. The timber needs a few dry days so the oil can soak in properly. Our decking guide explains how to prepare.

Once a year is a good rule of thumb. South-facing decks in full sun may need it sooner. Regular oiling stops the wood drying out and greying.

We swap out damaged boards and re-fix loose ones as part of the job. New boards are blended in once the whole deck is oiled.

We match the species, width and age of your boards wherever possible. After sanding and finishing the whole area, repairs blend in. Learn more about wood floor repairs.

Most creaks are caused by boards moving on their fixings. We screw loose boards down into the joists and fix any movement in the joists below. Read about causes and fixes.

Often, yes. Light marks often sand away, while badly swollen or stained boards are replaced and blended in. The floor must be fully dry first, so we may check moisture levels before starting.

If the finish is worn but the wood is not damaged, a maintenance coat is often enough. It is quicker and cheaper than sanding and keeps the floor protected. See re-oiling.

Busy areas like hallways and kitchens usually need a maintenance coat every one to two years. Quieter rooms can go much longer. Our guide to re-oiling and re-coating helps you judge.

Yes — as long as the wear has not reached the bare wood. We lightly abrade the surface, clean it and apply a new coat of lacquer, giving back an even, protective finish without a full sand.

Use a soft brush or vacuum, then a barely damp mop with a wood floor soap. Avoid steam mops and harsh cleaners. Read our care guide for a simple routine.